E finalmente si torna in Sud America! Due settimana tra lo stato di Bahia e Rio de Janeiro.
Due zaini, due bimbi, sandali ai piedi e si riparte!
Atterriamo a Rio dove veniamo piacevolmente accolti da una temperatura serale sui 30 gradi. Manca uno zaino all’appello. Poco male, entriamo nel primo negozio di hawaianas (a Rio ci sono quasi più negozi di hawaianas che caipirinhe) per togliere le All Star ai piedi di Pablo, prendiamo le chiavi del nostro Airbnb e ci godiamo la prima birretta rinfrescante nel quartiere di Botafogo. La prima cerveza atterrati in un paese è sempre il segnale d’inizio della vacanza…ci si lascia alle spalle lo stress del lavoro e ci si immerge in un altro mondo.
Non abbiamo tempo di aspettare lo zaino in città, confidiamo che in qualche modo ci venga recapitato e il mattino dopo prendiamo un volo per Porto Seguro. Da lì intercettiamo il primo minibus verso sud. I bimbi non pagano e viaggiano in braccio a noi, siamo abituati allo stretto. Sale un ragazzo brasiliano e Pablo commenta “questo sì che è un Paese! Dove si può tranquillamente salire sui pulman a torso nudo” …. “non dirlo a me”, penso io :) .
Ci fermiamo una notte a Trancoso. Prima di partire ci eravamo documentati, presi da mille dubbi se sostare o no in questo semplice e pittoresco paesino da ormai qualche anno diventato meta di un turismo esclusivo. Pensiamo però che la bassa stagione possa aiutarci a immaginarlo come poteva essere quando ancora era solo un villaggio di casette colorate con al centro un campo da calcio e una chiesetta bianca al fondo, ora ribattezzato “quadrato”. Non ci pentiamo della scelta. Arriviamo a Trancoso in tempo per vedere la luna piena salire dal mare, il celebre quadrato è a dir poco emozionante, nella sua bellezza ancora semplice e nei colori tipici delle casette che lo circondano. Alla sera scegliamo uno dei tanti ristoranti illuminati dai lumini appesi agli alberi, ci godiamo un concerto di bravi musicisti argentini e ci concediamo la prima moqueca di pesce. Eh si perchè uno dei motivi per cui abbiamo scelto di tornare in Bahia è anche la sua cucina così diversa dalle altre regioni del paese. Una zuppa di pesce cotta in tipici contenitori di argilla nel latte di cocco: imperdibile! Trancoso ci rivela la sua anima “vip” nel conto più che salato della cena, ma nonostante la frequentazione di attori e star internazionali, forse per via della bassa stagione, ci sembra comunque un paesino dal fascino semplice e ammaliante. 
Lo zaino non arriva, ma noi fremiamo per raggiungere una delle tappe più ambite del viaggio: Caraiva.
Altre tre ore di strada sterrata verso sud, arriviamo ad un minuscolo molo. Da lì, in pochi minuti, ci traghettano con una canoa al di là del fiume. Benvenuti a Caraiva!
Paesino magico, circondato da una sponda dalla calma del fiume e dall’altra dalle onde dell’Oceano. In mezzo solo strade di sabbia e alberi secolari. Nessun veicolo a motore può circolare, solo qualche carrozza trainata da asini. La corrente elettrica è arrivata da pochi anni, salvando il paese dal rumore dei generatori comunque presenti per animare le serate di forrò. I bambini corrono scalzi per le strade, si ambientano in fretta e noi con loro.
Abbiamo preso una casetta affacciata sul mare, la cui bellezza rimarrà impressa nella nostra memoria per luuungo tempo. Una casa di legno con cucina e bagno all’aperto affacciati su un rigoglioso giardino di palme, una terrazza tutta per noi da cui ammirare le onde dell’oceano, la lunga spiaggia deserta e iniziare a divorare i libri che mi terranno compagnia per tutto il viaggio.
Unica domanda che ci sorge spontanea è: come farà il nostro zaino ad essere recapitato fin quaggiù? Il proprietario della nostra casa ci tranquillizza dicendoci che in qualche modo, alla maniera brasiliana, lo zaino avrebbe raggiunto il fiume e qualche barcaiolo avrebbe mandato da noi il corriere. E così effettivamente è successo dopo 5 giorni. Abbiamo quindi capito che potremmo tranquillamente viaggiare con un solo zaino :)
I giorni trascorrono con ritmi rilassati, non ci stufiamo mai di camminare per queste strade sabbiose, i bambini scoprono e gustano l’acai, granita di frutto dell’amazzonia tipicamente servita con miele, banana e granola. Alla sera giocano con bimbi incontrati per strada, capendosi a gesti e sorrisi, osservano la lezione di Capoeira dei ragazzi del paese e noi ammiriamo il tramonto sorseggiando Caipirinha sulle sponde del fiume.
Un villaggio di sola sabbia, per me, è il Paradiso Terrestre!
Unico enorme rimpianto non averlo scoperto dieci anni fa, quando viaggiavamo da queste parti ed era ancora un piccolo e economico villaggio sconosciuto al turismo. Ora ci raccontano che durante l’alta stagione del Carnevale si riempie di turisti e di feste ogni sera, facciamo fatica a crederlo visto che abbiamo la fortuna di goderne ancora il ritmo rilassato,le strade decisamente non affollate. Come può cambiare la prospettiva di un paesino a seconda dei mesi in cui lo si visita!
A fatica decidiamo di mantenere l’itinerario programmato e di non piazzarci per due settimane a Caraiva dove io, nonostante il mare ondoso, non faticherei a prendere la residenza.
Ma è ora di ritornare on the road. Canoa, pulman, 4 ore di sterrata, una notte ad Arraial d’Ajuda non distante dall’aereoporto e si ritorna a Rio!
E’ sabato sera, questa volta decidiamo di dormire nel quartiere di Santa Teresa che avevamo amato nel nostro primo viaggio. Santa Teresa è un quartiere diverso dagli altri, arrocato sulla collina, abbellito da case tipicamente coloniali. Ci accompagna nella nostra serata Andreas , il ragazzo che lavora nella nostra pousada.
Ci fa cenare in un semplice e caratteristico ristorante, aggiornandoci sulle triste eredità economica delle Olimpiadi. In questa prima parte del viaggio ci eravamo resi conto di quanto fosse aumentato il costo della vita in Brasile, chiedendoci come fosse sostenibile per la maggior parte dei brasiliani. E infatti non lo è :(
Andreas ci racconta di dover fare tre lavori per potersi mantenere, di come molti scelgano la strada più semplice della criminalità, soprattutto ora che la polizia non è pagata da mesi e le strade sono terra di nessuno! Il Brasile non era pronto a cogliere l’opportunità che le Olimpiadi potevano dare, la corruzione, come prevedibile, ha avuto la meglio. Simbolo di questa caduta è la chiusura da mesi del Maracanà, stadio simbolo di Rio, dove dieci anni fa avevamo visto il derby Botafogo-Flamengo, ora in triste stato di abbandono.
Concludiamo il nostro sabato sera in un localino molto hipster di Santa Teresa, il Favela Hype.
Attirati dalla musica rock ‘n roll suonata dal vivo, Pietro e Alice si fanno presto coinvolgere dalla band finendo per suonare l’armonica insieme a loro e riempiendo la pista di bellissime brasiliane, con il loro entusiasmo contagioso.
Rio è solo una tappa di passaggio, il viaggio prosegue verso sud. Quattro ore di pullman, quattro ore di sonno per Pietrino che deve riprendersi dal live della sera prima. Arriviamo nella città coloniale di Paraty, piccolo gioiello Unesco. Ci accoglie un cielo grigio e carico di pioggia, ma non ci facciamo scoraggiare troppo. Riusciamo comunque a gironzolare per le vie acciottolate del paese prima che vengano allagate completamente dal temporale. Andiamo a dormire speranzosi nel ritorno del sole per poter raggiungere la prossima meta.
Il meteo è dalla nostra parte, per fortuna, saliamo sull’ennesimo pullman e ci rendiamo presto conto, dalle condizioni della strada, che non avremmo mai raggiunto la prossima tappa se il sole non avesse asciugato lo sterrato.
Un’ora scarsa e arriviamo alla spiaggia di Paraty Mirim, siamo molto emozionati, questa volta, nonostante il poco tempo a disposizione, vogliamo provare a raggiungere una meta insolita, se ancora ne esistono : ). C’è un piccolo molo da dove iniziamo ad ammirare il paesaggio in attesa che spunti qualche barchetta disposta a portarci all’interno del fiordo di Saco de Mamanguà. Coi bimbi giochiamo ai pirati in attesa della loro barca per la conquista del tesoro di Mamanguà :)
Un motoscafo ci molla a metà del fiordo. Abbiamo trovato un ostello affacciato sulle calme acque del mare, circondato da jungla e sentieri, l’atmosfera è così pacifica che i bimbi la colgono al volo correndo subito nelle loro ormai solitarie esplorazioni della zona. Ci ambientiamo e prendiamo una canoa per ammirare il fiordo pagaiando nelle sue tranquille acque.
Trascorriamo due giorni felici, increduli di aver scoperto un posto ancora così poco pubblicizzato, ma dal fascino unico. La sera i bimbi si divertono aiutandoci a fare un falò sulla spiaggia e noi sorseggiamo cachaca cercando stelle cadenti. Il secondo giorno esploriamo l’interno azzardando un trekking di un’oretta nella jungla. Procediamo a piccoli passi, seguendo il ritmo di Pietro. Ci guardiamo raggianti nel vederli finalmente cammminare e sogniamo già futuri viaggi e camminate nella natura. Continuo a soprendermi della loro adattabilità ai viaggi, non si sono mai lamentati di tutti i mezzi di trasporto che hanno preso, hanno camminato come mai a Torino osano fare. Hanno giocato e giocato insieme in completa autonomia, certo stuzzicandosi a volte come tutti i fratelli, ma facendosi anche tanto coraggio a vicenda nelle loro esplorazioni e fantasiose avventure.
L’ultima sera sul fiordo veniamo invitati a cena da un simpatico e socievolissimo signore brasiliano che abita in una splendida casa di vetro e legno con un terrazzino a strapiombo sul fiordo. Ci sembra una buona occasione per sentire qualche racconto sulla zona da chi l’ha scoperta prima di noi. Conosciamo così una signora che abita lì da ormai 30 anni ed è la padrona di una manciata di splendide case affacciate sul fiordo. Scopriamo dai suoi racconti che il Club Med aveva provato ad acquistare 20 anni fa dei terreni in quella zona, ma per fortuna la proprietaria non li avevi voluti cedere. E così il fiordo ha mantenuto il suo fascino selvaggio e rilassato. Un posto che speriamo rimanga invariato ancora per molti anni, anche se i ricchi di San Paolo stanno iniziando a costruirsi le loro residenze estive.
Sono tutti molto curiosi di sapere come siamo venuti a conoscenza di questa zona, raccontiamo che è stata una piacevole casualità nell’aver visto su Facebook, proprio poco prima di partire, una foto di uno shooting Lavazza che ritraeva proprio una canoa sul Saco de Mamanguà. La foto ci ha incuriositi e così eccoci qui, nella loro casetta, a gustare un’ottima cena brasiliana, con tanti racconti e una stellata indimenticabile a far da cornice.
Come ultima tappa insisisto per voler tornare a Ilha Grande. Voglia di mare calmo, baie e nuotate coi bimbi. Dieci anni fa era segnalata sulla Lonely Planet come tappa “off the beaten track”. Al nostro arrivo invece la vista dell’isola è oscurata da una nave di MSC Crociere :(
Per fortuna abbiamo prenotato un bungalow in una minuscola spiaggia lontano da tutti. Ilha Grande è ancora bellissima! Senza macchine, rigogliosa, mi ricordavo l’acqua color smeraldo e i sentieri nella foresta per passare da una spiaggia all’altra.
Primi snorkelling con Alice, mi godo i momenti a due, in silenzio, con maschera e boccaglio, l’emozione per ogni singolo pesciolino. Mi sveglio al mattino presto per aver la spiaggia tutta per me, rintanarmi nelle mie letture in attesa del loro risveglio. Camminiamo nuovamente nella jungla, un’ora di camminata, un’ora di chiacchiere ininterrotte prive di senso di Pietro. Neanche le salite lo lasciano senza fiato! Arriviamo alla spiaggia Lopes Mendez, maestosa, gigantesca. Giochiamo alle Mini Olimpiadi, ci immergiamo nella morbida sabbia infarinandoci dalla testa ai piedi, ruotiamo sulla spiaggia.
Il Brasile mi rimane ancora nel cuore, so per certo che ci tornerò e tornerò. Viaggiare coi bimbi per certi aspetti è più semplice, non c’è stato negozietto dove non abbiano omaggiato loro di qualcosa e son stati coccolati da tutti. A chi ci chiede di continuo se fosse sicuro dico solo che in alcuni posti non abbiamo dovuto neanche chiudere la porta di casa. Non abbiamo mai percepito sensazioni di pericolo. A Rio, come in tutte le grandi città bisogna prestare attenzione e non dare nell’occhio, ma per visitarla altro non serve che una canotta, dei pantaloncini e un paio di hawaianas.
E Rio, l’ultima sera, ci ha regalato uno dei ricordi più belli del viaggio: il tramonto con la vista dal Pan di Zucchero. E io non ho dubbi,per quel che ho visto finora nel mio piccolo, che, vista dall’alto, sia la città più incredibile del mondo!
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