Un tuffo nel Mare delle Andamane

Thailand - 24 marzo 2015

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Finalmente è giunta l’ora di viaggiare come si deve con qualche chilo di più sulle spalle e due piccoli viaggiatori al seguito. Destinazione ancora una volta: Thailandia!
Complici delle ottime offerte delle compagnie aeree arabe che con 450/500 euro, fuori stagione, ti portano fino in Asia.
Noi optiamo per la Oman Air. Pietro pare apprezzarne le hostess :), noi apprezziamo lo scalo a Muscat che vince il premio “aeroporto family friendly” offrendo ai passeggeri in transito comodissimi passeggini che ci aiutano non poco durante la nostra sosta. Alice osserva alcune donne coperte interamente da tuniche bianche e ci chiede come mai ci sono dei fantasmi (?!?!).
Dopo dodici ore di volo arriviamo a Bangkok.
Com’è volare coi bambini ci chiedono tutti al nostro rientro? Alice, a tre anni e mezzo, ha superato la fase critica. Felicissima di volare, ma soprattutto di avere per la prima volta un televisore touch screen tutto per sè. Pietro, a 14 mesi, è una gestione più complessa. Per fortuna le hostess se ne innamorano e ci aiutano coccolandoselo a turno. Fondamentale presentarsi al check in con largo anticipo e chiedere i posti con la culletta per il piccolo, per poter riposarsi almeno qualche ora e avere un po’ di spazio per l’area gioco improvvisata ai nostri piedi.
L’impatto con Bangkok, nonostante contiamo che è ormai la quinta volta che passiamo di qui, è sempre eufemisticamente “caloroso”.
Trenta gradi che ti colpiscono appena usciti dall’aeroporto. Pietro la prima notte rischia di sciogliersi (anche se non ha perso neanche un etto!) unica soluzione scappare al mare il prima possibile!
Non prima di aver re-incontrato grazie a Facebook, che ogni tanto serve a ritrovare degli amici reali, un compagno delle medie di Paolo trasferito qui con la famiglia da qualche anno. Vittorio è un regista, dopo aver firmato importanti videoclip, ha preso atto del declino del mercato italiano e si è buttato in una nuova avventura. E’ felicissimo di lavorare in Asia, ha una famiglia splendida e ci ha fatto conoscere degli ottimi ristoranti  incuriosendoci con i suoi racconti da Expat. Ci siamo dati appuntamento il prossimo anno per una serata su qualche roof top bar di Bangkok, esperienza che ancora ci manca. Ironia della sorte abbiamo scoperto di aver vissuto per anni a Torino come vicini di casa e invece è molto più probabile che ci si riveda  i prossimi anni nei nostri passaggi a Bangkok!

La nostra destinazione è l’isola di Koh Kradan, nelle isole di Trang. Prendiamo un volo, un minivan e una barca … ma appena vediamo il colore dell’acqua pensiamo che ogni spostamento è valso la pena!
Koh Kradan è un’isola dove non c’e’ nulla, nessun villaggio, nessun abitante, solo sette resort (purtroppo la maggior parte parecchio cari!), due spiagge e una foresta in mezzo.
Noi abbiamo solo bisogno di un bungalow vista mare, qualche bambino con cui socializzare, dei ristoranti dove scassarci di Pad-Thai (noodle thailandesi), qualche buon libro, la birra fresca, l’acqua calda in cui potersi tuffare ad ogni ora del giorno e una barriera corallina a 200 mt di distanza per nuotare in compagnia di milioni di pesciolini. Ci aggiungiamo anche due djset improvvisati con la mia musica sulla spiaggia per ravvivare qualche serata!
Incontriamo altri viaggiatori, famiglie che trascorrono qualche mese in giro per le isole e raccogliamo informazioni preziose per viaggi futuri. Ci facciamo allettare dall’idea di spostarci in un’altra isola.

A sole due ore di barca dista Koh Lipe, al confine con la Malesia. Qualche anno fa se ne parlava come la nuova “Phi Phi Island”, era la nuova isola paradisiaca da esplorare. Purtroppo sappiamo che il turismo di massa è già arrivato anche lì, ma tutti ci dicono che è comunque un turismo rilassato e che l’isola merita effettivamente una visita. Visto che sicuramente non può che cambiare sempre di più e in peggio e visto che non dista molto, decidiamo di andarla a visitare.
Non rimaniamo delusi. Intravediamo come poteva essere l’isola solo qualche anno fa, ma ci facciamo comunque ammaliare dal suo mare dai colori verdi/blu e dalla sabbia bianca e morbida, con cui i bambini si infarinano in continuazione. L’isola è sfruttata, troppe troppe barche, ma troviamo comunque il nostro angolo di mare incantevole e deserto e ci godiamo la spiaggia con i suoi ristorantini dove mangiare alla sera con i piedi nella sabbia, sorseggiare Chang e Singha, mentre i bimbi giocano in attesa della cena.
Incontriamo parecchi pensionati italiani che decidono di svernare da anni da queste parti e sogniamo un giorno di seguire le loro orme. Notiamo anche come siano aumentati, rispetto ai nostri viaggi precedenti,  i ristorantini italiani, troppa gente in fuga in cerca di uno stile di vita migliore.

Abbiamo imparato negli anni a rallentare sempre di più i nostri ritmi di viaggio, a non avere la frenesia di mettere bandierine su mille posti diversi, ma a goderci l’atmosfera lenta un posto alla volta, un viaggio alla volta. Con due bimbi al seguito rallentiamo ancora di più, tutti e quattro necessitiamo di più tempo per adattarci ai luoghi, rilassarci noi, ambientarsi loro, divertirci tutti :).
La Thailandia si conferma sempre una scelta adattissima coi bimbi al seguito. Un paese facile da girare, con tantissimi mezzi di trasporto per qualsiasi destinazione a qualsiasi ora, con ottimo cibo e con  i thailandesi che ti aiutano di continuo giocando felici con i nostri figli. Certo non è la meta più esotica da esplorare, ma viaggiare con Alice e Pietro è già di per sè un’avventura e noi, ora, non abbiamo bisogno d’altro. Fargli scoprire nuovi mezzi di trasporto, camminare in mezzo ai mercati enormi di Bangkok, mangiare spiedini (spigolini come li chiama Alice) alle bancarelle, vivere nudi sulla spiaggia, giocare con bimbi di qualsiasi nazionalità, iniziare a mettergli un piccolo zainetto sulle spalle è sufficiente a renderci felici!
Ci rendiamo conto che non dobbiamo avere fretta, ad ogni età corrisponderà il giusto viaggio, adesso per loro è importante passare del tempo con noi e viceversa, non sono ancora pronti a mille spostamenti e luoghi di cui non ricorderebbero molto. Gli rimarranno impresse delle sensazioni, e per noi è stato bellissimo vederli unirsi in questa vacanza,  insabbiarsi insieme di giorno e rincorrersi la sera nel bungalow per poi crollare vicini sul loro letto improvvisato con un materasso a terra.
Son state solo due settimane, ma intense. I bambini ti riempiono la vacanza, non esistono tempi morti e per una volta il tempo non è volato, ma si è dilatato in emozioni quadruplicate.  Siamo tornati negretti, in qualche modo riposati e con la testa piena di sogni pronti a decollare!

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