Esistono diversi tipi di turisti in India.
C’e’ il turista da “viaggio organizzato” che solitamente visita il Rajasthan, Il Taj Mahal e Varanasi in poco piu’ di due settimane con voli interni, pulmini dotati di aria condizionata e alberghi dai comfort occidentali. Rimangono solitamente folgorati dalle classiche bellezze indiane, da forti, templi e moschee, ma intravedono soltanto in minima parte la poverta’, la sporcizia e gli odori dell’India.
C’e’ il turista spirituale/new age, i bianchi in cerca di se stessi anche se molti finiscono per perdersi ancora di piu’ (non avete idea della quantita’ di matti che si possono incontrare in India), coloro che seguono la religione hindu’ o il piu’ popolare buddismo, i fanatici dello yoga, quelli che viaggiano in cerca del miglior trattamento ayurvedico, quelli che si spostano a meditare di ashram in ashram, quelli che cercano i loro guru e impazziscono letteralmente alla sola vista di un Sai Baba o della popolare Madre, famosa per i suoi abbracci ai fedeli.
Ci sono gli hippy stabilitisi qui negli anni ’70 e mai piu’ ripartiti e le nuove generazioni di freakettoni in cerca di posti economici e “shanti” dove piazzarsi a fumare charas, resina di cannabis prodotta nella zona dell’Himalaya e distribuita in tutta l’India. Costoro colonizzano alcuni paesini indiani, non sembrano particolarmente interessati al viaggiare, sono sedentari, si vestono con un misto di stile freak e abiti tradizionali indiani, hanno rigorosamente i dread e le crocs ai piedi, arrivano da tutto il mondo, ma in prevalenza da Israele (post servizio militare), si preoccupano di uscire dal paese per farsi rinnovare il visto alla scadenza dei primi sei mesi e viaggiano sulle moto Enfield facilmente acquistabili in India a poco prezzo.
E poi ci siamo noi, i backpacker, viaggiatori, globetrotter…che viaggiamo sui bus locali in mezzo a mille (senza esagerare!) indiani, che giriamo le localita’ turistiche, ma tentiamo di cercare anche i villaggi meno battuti, che litighiamo tutti i giorni con i guidatori di riscio’ per tentare di pagare un tariffa simil-indiana, che mangiamo e apprezziamo il buonissimo cibo indiano, anche se il nostro stomaco a volte ne risente, che facciamo lo slalom tra le cacche di mucca, gli sciami di mosche, i pisciatoi umani e gli sputi rosso sangue di paan masala (noce di betel che gli indiani masticano in continuazione e sputano un metro si’ e uno no rischiando di colpire ogni volta ignari passanti) e beviamo chai (te’ indiano) alle bancarelle per 3 rupie.
La gente ha visioni e aspettative differenti dell’India.
Sicuramente se siete seduti alla vostra scrivania a leggere qualche articolo sulla new economy vi aspetterete un paese in evidente crescita economica con informatici ad ogni angolo della strada. Ma questo puo’ essere vero per le citta’ di Bangalore e Hyderabad, per il resto dell’India ci sembra veramente presto per parlare di boom economico.
La gente non muore di fame come magari avviene in Africa, ma la poverta’, il sovrappopolamento, la sporcizia, l’inquinamento e potrei andare avanti con molti altri esempi, non ci fanno pensare all’India come ad una nuova potenza economica.
C’e’ chi dice che uno dei motivi per cui l’India non riesce a stare al passo con il rapido sviluppo del vicino dragone cinese sia il problema della burocrazia lasciata in eredita’ dagli Inglesi negli anni passati e non ancora cambiata. Noi lo sperimentiamo nel nostro piccolo tutti i giorni con mille moduli da riempire ogni volta che cambiamo albergo o decidiamo di prendere un biglietto del treno.
Il turismo e’ molto sviluppato, l’India e’ da parecchi anni una delle mete preferite dei viaggiatori di tutto il mondo. Ma prendiamo il simbolo per eccellenza, la nuova di recente eletta settima meraviglia del mondo: il Taj Mahal. Niente si puo’ dire sul suo stato di conservazione, ma basta fare pochi passi intorno alle mura della meraviglia per ritrovare il solito fiume inquinato e una montagna di rifiuti plastici.
A volte questa “disorganizzazione” turistica va a nostro vantaggio. Nella citta’ di Jaisalmer, nel deserto del Rajasthan quasi al confine con il “nemico” Pakistan, abbiamo potuto dormire con poche rupie all’interno del forte storico della citta’. Una location unica. Fosse restaurato e pulito (le viuzze del forte sono piene di saccheti di plastica, vacche e dei loro sacri escrementi) sarebbe un susseguirsi di alberghi di lusso a prezzi per noi inacessibili e rimarebbe ben poco del fascino originale.
Per una volta ci siamo sentiti noi dei VIP a dormire dentro il forte mentre i turisti “alpitour” dormivano nei ricchi alberghi fuori dalle mura.
Ma come si fa a parlare di boom economico se anche nella “ricca” citta’ di Bombay la maggior parte della gente passa le giornate in coda per ottenere la propria razione di acqua o gas e le donne che vivono negli slum si devono svegliare alla mattina prima dell’alba per cercare un angolo di privacy dove poter defecare senza esser viste da milioni di indiani?!?
Ora siamo a Varanasi, citta’ santa per eccellenza, dove la gente viene a morire sperando cosi’ di uscire dal ciclo di vita e di morte della reincarnazione e le loro ceneri vengono gettate nel sacro Gange.
Varanasi rappresenta bene tutto cio’ che e’ l’India: ricchezza nei suoi centri commerciali blindati dalla polizia, sporcizia e puzza negli strettissimi vicoli carichi di ogni odore possibile, sacralita’ vera nelle persone che, incuranti di essere davanti ad uno dei fiumi piu’ inquinati al mondo, praticano la puja bagnandosi ripetutamente nelle sue acque, sacralita’ in vendita per i turisti con finti “sacerdoti” pronti a venderti benedizioni per non poche rupie ad ogni ghat, e ancora scocciatori che ti vedono come un portafogli ambulante e provano a condurti nel proprio negozio con ogni scusa possibile, mucche a bagno nel fiume, polizia armata con fucili risalenti alla seconda guerra mondiale a protezione dei templi hindu’ minacciati dall’eterno conflitto con i musulmani, bellissimi e fotogenici Baba sempre attenti a chiedere rupie in cambio di fotografie, lunghi sari appena lavati stesi al sole sulle scalinate sporche, sterco di mucca ad essicare per la costruzione di nuove case e cumuli di legna per i corpi che ad ogni ora del giorno e della notte vengono bruciati in riva al fiume.
That’s India!
C’e’ chi la ama alla follia, chi non ci tornerebbe mai e chi non riesce ad andarsene.
Mi ritengo fortunata ad averla potuta visitare da donna “sposata”: le ragazze che abbiamo incontrato in viaggio da sole o con amiche hanno tutte raccontato di aver patito parecchio la pesantezza dei continui sguardi e approcci degli indiani.
Per noi una tappa faticosa, ma comunque “da non perdere” del nostro viaggio. Dopo aver visto il Gange inquinato a Varanasi proviamo ad andare a fare il bagno sacro alla sorgente, sperando sia piu’ pulita. Un po’ di fresco, aria sana e tranquillita’ verso l’Himalaya e le piu’ quiete comunita’ buddiste tibetane qui in esilio.
PS: GRAZIE a tutti quelli che ci hanno rivotato! A quanto pare abbiamo vinto di nuovo!!!!!!!!!!Siete incredibili, siete la nostra ragione di rientro! GRAZIE GRAZIE GRAZIE, a presto per i festeggiamenti insieme!
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