Tutti i colori dell’India

India - 31 marzo 2008

2.829 Comments

Sperperato in poco tempo il nostro stipendio da star, Mumbay e’ forse la citta’ piu’ cara dell’India, siamo ripartiti verso nord questa volta via treno. Purtroppo la velocita’, che si viaggi in treno o in pulman, non cambia, si aggira sempre intorno ai quaranta chilometri orari e per percorrere poche centinaia di chilometri si impiegano nottate intere.
Vi basti pensare che i treni viaggiano con le porte aperte, con i bambini con le gambe fuori a penzoloni e i corridoi con la gente costantemente pressata.
Ma e’ proprio la non velocita’ dei mezzi che salva l’India dall’avere un tasso di incidenti elevatissimo, guidano tutti come….non ho le parole per descriverlo, pazzi non rende sufficientemente l’idea, ma per fortuna, quando inevitabilmente si scontrano, vanno talmente piano che i danni solitamente sono irrisori.
Dopo la solita nottata di spostamento piu’ vari altri pulman sgangherati siamo arrivati alle grotte di Ellora e Ajanta. Una serie di templi scavati nella roccia della montagna di una bellezza veramente suggestiva. Blocchi di roccia enormi perfettamente lavorati e raffiguranti le varie divinita’. La particolarita’ di Ellora e’ proprio quella di poter visitare, a pochissima distanza l’uno dall’altro, templi buddisti, hinduisti e gianisti. Nessuno ha costruito sul tempio altrui, ognuno ha occupato il suo pezzetto di montagna…ma purtroppo, nella storia indiana, non sempre le numerosissime e diverse religioni hanno convissuto insieme pacificamente.
Ce lo spiega anche Tommaso, amico torinese, incontrato, dopo la visita alle grotte, ad Ahmedabad, capitale del Gujarat.
Tom e’ qui in India per un dottorato in storia, si occupa di studiare l’evoluzione della citta’  negli ultimi anni e la convivenza delle varie comunita’ religiose. Ahmedabad e’ tristemente nota per essere stata sede, nel 2002, di uno dei piu’ grandi scontri tra musulmani e induisti che causo’ la morte di migliaia di persone.


Ne abbiamo parlato anche con Sonia, ragazza italiana incontrata presso l’Universita’ Ghandiana, dove sta portando avanti un ambizioso progetto con l’obiettivo di fare dialogare tra di loro le dodici comunita’ religiose presenti in citta’. Ci siamo cosi’ trovati a trascorrere un pomeriggio a casa sua, in un piccolo appartamento, a chiacchierare con esponenti di diverse religioni, parsi, induisti, musulmani, gianisti…atmosfera interessante e straordinariamente pacifica.
Grazie all’ospitalita’ di Tommaso abbiamo potuto godere per qualche giorno di una casa vera e della vita di quartiere di una citta’ indiana dove di stranieri ne vedono passare ben pochi.
Pare che il padrone di casa di Tom, saputo del nostro arrivo e del nostro viaggio intorno al mondo, abbia esordito con questa frase:”Allora non dobbiamo spargere la voce con i vicini, gia’ ci sara’ abbastanza confusione tra giornali e televisioni!!”…dal suo punto di vista non potevamo che essere delle persone famose se stavamo facendo un viaggio del genere :-)
Nonostante questo, ogni persona della zona, sapeva di noi. In India non esiste il concetto di privacy, d’altronde non esistono spazi non affollati, ogni volta che uscivamo di casa c’era tutto il quartiere pronto a salutarci e a chiederci dove andavamo.
Per il bene di Tom, ma come ormai siamo abituati a fare qui in India, ci siamo presentati come una coppia sposata, altrimenti saremmo stati mal visti e ho quindi ricevuto in dono dei braccialetti di origine bengalese che portano tutte le donne sposate.
E’ stato molto interessante osservare la vita di quartiere e, anche se avevamo molti occhi puntati su di noi, abbiamo conosciuto belle persone di un’ospitalita’ eccezionale.

Il 22 marzo, per festeggiare l’inizio della primavera (veramente ci sono gia’ 40 gradi!) e il compleanno di Pablo nel migliore dei modi, abbiamo partecipato alla festa dell’Holi!
La romantica citta’ di Udaipur con i suoi palazzi sul lago e le viuzze strette e poco trafficate (sempre per gli standard indiani) ci e’ sembrata una buona location per la festa piu’ colorata dell’India, dal mattino al pomeriggio tardi, chiunque si avventuri per le strade delle citta’ viene colorato dalla testa ai piedi, macchina fotografica inclusa.
Ogni attivita’ commerciale chiude i battenti, spuntano bancarelle che vendono colori naturali e pistole ad acqua per i bambini ad ogni angolo, anche se, come abbiamo potuto constatare di persona, i secchi d’acqua sono molto piu’ gettonati.
Per non rovinare i nostri vestiti ci siamo comprati degli abiti bianchi e appena usciti dall’albergo, dopo pochi minuti, eravamo completamente ricoperti di colore, dei quadri astratti viventi, come se stessimo partecipando ad una performance d’arte di strada.
Neppure le sacre mucche vengono risparmiate nel giorno dell’Holi, e i colori rimangono su muri e animali per i giorni a venire.
Giovani, vecchi e bambini tutti partecipano e si colorano a vicenda e, ovviamente, i turisti sono tra i piu’ attaccati, solo le donne indiane non si vedono quasi mai per la strada, solo a volte, timidamente affacciate alle finestre.
Noi ci siamo divertiti a partecipare a questa specie di “carnevale” indiano, dopo un paio di docce siamo tornati bianchi come prima, ma con il ricordo indelebile di tutti i colori dell’India per un giorno sulla nostra pelle.

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