Quest’anno non è stato facile scegliere la nostra meta per il viaggetto invernale. Volevamo andare al caldo, dovevamo scegliere una meta tranquilla che non comportasse troppi spostamenti ed evitare il virus della Zika che, purtroppo, abbiamo scoperto essere ormai presente in tutta l’America del Sud e Centrale e anche in Asia. Abbiamo quindi iniziato a guardare verso l’Oceano Indiano e puntato il dito sulla mappa: Seychelles!
Ci è sembrata una destinazione semplice, rilassante e senza grandi virus dai cui doversi proteggere.
Probabilmente non avessimo avuto queste esigenze non l’avremmo considerata come destinazione, ma iniziando a studiare i vari spostamenti abbiamo letto racconti di viaggio che ci confermavano la possibilità di visitare queste isole evitando i resort all inclusive e abbiamo pensato: perché no? :)
Grazie alle compagnie aeree arabe è possibile acquistare voli a prezzi ragionevoli per il mese di febbraio, più difficile è stato trovare invece delle sistemazioni del nostro budget.
Alice: siamo andati in aereo e abbiamo subito detto “dove sono le cuffie per i cartoni” e poi siamo partiti.
Abbiamo fatto uno scalo e abbiamo trovato dei giochi e ci siamo messi a scivolare e giocare ai Pigiamask e poi stavamo aspettando l’aereo, ma il signore ha detto “si parte domattina all’alba” e allora abbiamo dormito su un passeggino (gentile concessione dell’aereoporto di Doha).
La soluzione più economica per dormire alle Seychelles sono le guest house self catering che offrono l’utilizzo della cucina. Son stati sicuramente utilissimi i racconti di altri viaggiatori che consigliavano di caricarsi lo zaino con cibo dall’Italia, anche se inizialmente ci sembrava esagerato queste scorte sono state veramente fondamentali per il nostro standard di viaggio.
Alle Seychelles tutto è importato e pertanto molto caro. I ristoranti scarseggiano perché la maggior parte dei turisti cenano nei loro resort. Le uniche soluzioni economiche sono i Take Away, camioncini o semplici chioschi, che per 5 euro ti offrono un pranzo o cena a base di riso pesce o pollo.
Molte spiagge, e questo ci ha stupito positivamente, non hanno neanche un bar dove prendere da bere quindi dotarsi di pranzo al sacco è stato spesso una questione di sopravvivenza oltre che di risparmio.
Un semplice, ma buonissimo, mango shake in un chioschetto di palme e legno sulla spiaggia costa 8 euro. Per fortuna i bimbi in questo aiutano perché non mancavano mai di regalargli bananine o cocco extra.
Quindi siamo atterrati e ci siamo svegliati , faceva caldo, abbiamo fatto un tuffo e poi abbiamo preso un aereo che era grande come mezzo aereo. Il giorno dopo abbiamo incontrato la mia prima amica del viaggio, italiana, e abbiamo giocato per tre giorni di fila.
Il secondo giorno siamo andati all’isola delle tartarughe, gli abbiamo dato da mangiare delle foglie speciali, non mangiano tutte le foglie, solo quelle speciali. Le tartaruga erano giga! Abbiamo fatto una camminata e attraversato l’isola. Siamo arrivati sudati marci, abbiamo fatto un tuffo e abbiamo scoperto che Pietro sapeva nuotare senza braccioli. Poi siamo andati a fare “snorkyl” e sembrava di nuotare in un acquario, abbiamo visto gli squali e tantissimi pesci bellissimi, abbiamo visto anche Nemo (dice Pietro) e pesci arcobaleno. E forse anche Dory.
Nonostante siano isole che vivono di turismo da anni, nonostante la presenza di resort di lusso, abbiamo apprezzato l’accessibilità di tutte le spiagge, la non privatizzazione dei luoghi pubblici. L’assenza di strutture come bar e ristoranti, sdraio e ombrelloni in alcune spiagge considerate tra le più belle al mondo.
Le Seychelles sono composte da migliaia di isole. Molte sono raggiungibili solo in barca, alcune sono accessibili solo ai Vip che vi arrivano in elicottero e soggiorno nel resort a cinque stelle. Noi abbiamo dedicato i primi giorni all’isola di Praslin per poi spostarci nella più piccola La Digue.
Abbiamo girato Praslin coi mezzi pubblici, a parte il caldo alle fermate, coi bus si riesce a raggiungere la maggior parte delle spiagge. Unico neo, l’ultimo pullman parte di solito verso le 17.30 e non consente di godersi il tramonto sulla spiaggia, momento sicuramente magico. Per questo l’ultimo giorno nell’isola abbiamo deciso di noleggiare una macchina per poter visitare al meglio l’isola e goderci fino all’ultima ora della giornata.
Come prima tappa abbiamo visitato la Riserva naturale della Vallée de Mai: un’incredibile fittissima foresta dove si può ammirare il Coco de Mer simbolo delle Seychelles.
Quando eravamo nella jungla e stavamo parlando con le radioline ad un certo punto abbiamo sbagliato strada. Nella jungla c’erano degli uccelli, abbiamo scoperto che per sapere quanti anni hanno le palme bisogna contare le righe sul tronco ma ne avevano così tante che non siamo riusciti a contarle tutte. E poi c’era un cocco a forma di culetto :)
Dopo aver visto la jungla sono andata all’inizio del percorso e abbiamo visto un diario dove bisognava scrivere tutti i commenti e io ho scritto “questo parco è strabello! “
E per goderci il migliore tramonto dell’isola abbiamo raggiunto la spiaggia di Anse Georgette situata all’interno di un resort di lusso, ma per fortuna accessibile anche a noi umili viaggiatori. Forse una delle spiagge più belle dei nostri viaggi.
Siamo andati in una spiaggia dove siamo passati attraverso un campo da golf, abbiamo visto il tramonto, fatto l’aperitivo, prima abbiamo fatto il bagno poi abbiamo fatto una buca grandissima nella sabbia.
Sbarcati a La Digue abbiamo capito subito essere un’isola più a nostra dimensione. Grande circa 5km e percorribile principalmente solo in bicicletta, anche se negli ultimi anni purtroppo stanno spuntando pulmini elettrici e qualche taxi per i turisti più pigri :(
Noi abbiamo subito noleggiato tre bici e abbiamo apprezzato il poter pedalare in autonomia da una parte all’altra dell’isola, su e giù per spiagge e foreste.
Ogni mattina mangiavamo pane e burro, poi un giorno siamo andati con le biciclette in una spiaggia. C’erano tante onde, poi siamo andati in una spiaggetta passando dalla jungla e ci siamo fermati a mangiare le bananine. E quando siamo tornati è incominciato a piovere, prima a piovigginare poi a piovere sempre di più , ci siamo fermati sotto una palma e per non bagnarci ci siamo messi un asciugamano sopra di noi, ma non ha funzionato l’acqua passava comunque.
Abbiamo fatto un’escursione di un giorno alle isole vicine, Grande Soeur e Little Soeur. Anche nelle escursioni si riesce a risparmiare qualcosina pagando il solo transfer e evitando le grigliate di pesce incluse nel pacchetto standard che ti viene offerto al molo. E noi abbiamo anche usufruito del servizio “babysitting” a bordo della barchetta quando i bimbi non avevano voglia di rituffarsi a vedere i pesci il gentilissimo equipaggio li intratteneva mostrandogli i libri sugli animali del mare e noi ci siamo goduti le nuotate con le tartarughe marine.
Una di queste isole è affittata per 100 anni ad una coppia svizzera, ma pagando una piccola tassa di ingresso la si può visitare e ammirare la bellissima spiaggia deserta di sabbia bianca finissima non ustionante e lambita da acque turchesi mentre Pietro andava a caccia dei tesori lasciati dai Pirati.
Pietro: Un signore sulla barca ha detto che non c’era un tesoro, invece noi abbiamo trovato un doblone rotondo sulla spiaggia!
Rimarranno nei nostri ricordi le lunghe pedalate per le strade di La Digue, l’incredibile varietà di pesci dai mille colori, le tartarughe più grandi di Alice e Pietro, il bianco abbagliante della sabbia, le enormi rocce levigate e perfette per salti e arrampicate a far da contorno alle spiagge, i pipistrelli giganti che ti sorvolano al tramonto, il verde della foresta e il turchese del mare.
Alice e Pietro hanno imparato a perlustrare le spiagge e le foreste da soli con le loro radioline, a fare snorkelling come in un acquario e toccare i pesciolini con le mani, Alice a pedalare instancabile su ogni pendenza e leggersi i primi libri, Pietro a nuotare senza braccioli nell’acqua calda del mare, a ordinarsi da bere in inglese, a prepararci la colazione al mattino :) , a dormire piede contro piede nel loro lettino, a scattare le loro prime fotografie e a scrivere le loro prime righe in mondovisione!
Questo è stato il nostro ultimo viaggio a quattro….stay tuned per nuove avventure in cinque :)
PS:
Alice: Abbiamo scoperto quando siamo tornati che Pietro sapeva andare in bici senza rotelle e mamma ha detto “non potevi dirlo prima che sapevi andare così ti facevamo pedalare alle Seychelles”
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