I mondovisionari sbarcano in Bolivia

Bolivia - 12 aprile 2007

51 Comments

Strana sensazione dopo mesi di pulman il salire su un treno, stupisce il trovare una rete ferroviaria nel paese piu’ povero del Sud America. Siamo sopravvisuti alle 20 ore sul treno della morte ad una velocita’ standard di 40 chilometri orari e arrivati a Santa Cruz ci siamo sgranchiti le gambe qualche oretta in centro in attesa di prendere il pulman notturno per Sucre. Passeggiando alla ricerca di farmacie per acquistare qualcosa per il mal d’altitudine (tra un po’ si iniziera’ a salire parecchio) e a caccia di libri sulla storia locale, ci siamo imbattuti in uno splendido mercato di quelli che ci fanno letteralmente impazzire. Mille bancarelle, saloni di bellezza, ma soprattutto una parte al coperto con tanti banchetti dove assaggiare le specialita’ locali e dove abbiamo comprato delle ottime empandas (calzoni di pasta sfoglia fritti o al forno ripieni di pollo, verdure e formaggio SLURP!).


Ma se il treno della morte non ha tenuto fede al suo nome ed e’ stato relativamente un viaggio tranquillo, non sapevamo che cosa dovevamo aspettarci dai pulman Boliviani. Saliamo sul bus diretto a Sucre, che forse non tutti sanno essere la capitale costituzionale della Bolivia. La media di bambini sul pulman si aggirava sui 2 a sedile, ogni famiglia era carica di coperte e inizialmente ci siamo chiesti come mai, visto che non era certo prevista l’aria condizionata. Noi eravamo gli unici non indios sul pulman e il nostro spagnolo si e’ rivelato totalmente inutile visto che l’unica lingua parlata era il Quechua. La poverta’ e’ brutta in ogni parte del mondo e appena arrivi in Bolivia te la ritrovi di fronte molto piu’ che negli altri paesi visti finora. Purtroppo qui, a differenza di paesi poveri che abbiamo visitato in altri viaggi come la Thailandia o il Laos, dove probabilmente aiutavano altri fattori culturali o religiosi, la sporcizia regna sovrana e i bambini e le mamme stesse vivono in condizioni pessime senza curarsene minimamente. Basti pensare che le donne urinano liberamente in mezzo alla strada nonostante il pulman effettui soste per andare in bagno. Le coperte abbiamo scoperto ben presto  che servivano per essere stese sul pavimento lercissimo del pulman e fare da letto a tutti quei bimbi. Una cosa per fortuna va detta, sono i bambini piu’ bravi che si possano incontrare, nonostante il pulman si sia fermato tre volte durante la notte per ben tre forature (alla seconda abbiamo smesso di chiederci quante altre ruote di scorta potesse avere), nessun bambino piangeva anche se svegliato all’improvviso.
E noi eravamo guardati da tutti come degli alieni, i bimbi, bellissimi, non riuscivano a toglierci gli occhi di dosso.
Anche questa e’ stata un’esperienza a cui credo, in Bolivia, dovremo abituarci. Per fortuna ora siamo a Sucre, detta anche la citta’ bianca, a goderci un giorno di relax ammirando lo splendore dei suoi palazzi e delle sue viuzze in attesa del prossimo temutissimo pulman ;-)

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51 Comments

  1. Interessante, oltre alle notizie di viaggio, anche questo spaccato di vita reale sui boliviani. Continuate anche a fornirci questi quadri di vita quotidiana e a documentarci su usi e costumi locali che apprezziamo non meno degli aspetti geografici. A proposito: perchè treno della morte……?
    Un abbraccio.

  2. eccomi, scusate l’assenteismo..vi ho letti, mi ero persa qualche puntata..L’immagine di voi in questo pullman della “speranza” stacolmo di bimbi buoni e curiosi di questi 2 loschi figuri..me li immagino, con i loro occhioni, che vi guardano..pelle d’oca!
    suerte!

  3. Ciao ragassuoli.
    Vi annuncio che qui è arrivata la primavera, nel senso che un po’ fa caldo e un po’ piove. Scusate per l’info di servizio, ma mi sto preoccupando per Cri, come fa senza un po’ di meteo??? Già non riesce a fare a meno delle fiaccole, olimpiche e meno olimpiche…;o)
    Farò vedere al mio babbo la foto da pescatori, adesso che è finita la stagione dello sci e inizia quella della pesca sarà invidiosissimo.
    un mega abbraccio

  4. ragazzi che esperienza….
    vi ammiro un sacco per cosa state facendo….
    e tra l’altro le foto sono spettacolari….
    spero vada tutto bene in bolivia….
    deve essere davvero un altro mondo…

    volevo chiedervi quando andate in nuova zelanda?
    perchè li’ ho diversi contatti che magari potrebbero farvi comodo(soprattutto per i primi giorni)

    baci abbracci e quant’altro
    ;)

    CUGINO LIBA

    myspace.com/mliba

  5. che tenerelli i bimbi con gli occhioni! non è che fareste una pausa dal vostro viaggio per venire a vedere il mio debutto teatrale venerdì sera qui? :-P sono sicura che non sia possibile,ma vabbè! Intanto vi invito :-)

  6. Certo non è un viaggio facile però merita farlo e vi confesso che lo farei anch’io, ma le…. tante primavere non me lo consentono.
    Un abbaraccio forte forte
    nonna

  7. Il treno della morte era cosi’ chiamato un tempo quando le condizioni di viaggio erano massacranti, ora per fortuna e’ migliorato e in confronto ai vari pulman e’ “quasi” un viaggio di lusso!
    In Nuova Zelanda andremo a settembre e ovviamente ogni contatto e’ ben accetto!Grazie in anticipo.
    PS: MERDA MERDA MERDA cugi, come si dice agli attori, buon debutto!

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